West Highland Way Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan (Beinglas)

Rowardennan Hotel redeemed itself somewhat this morning with a decent breakfast. Buffet style, we fuelled well before heading off for the day.

Leaving Rowardennan we followed Loch Lomond and this was pretty much the theme of the day. At times this was alongside the shore, often from a higher viewpoint, but the loch a constant throughout the day.

Initially walking was good, big wide trails and nothing too challenging underfoot. However, as the miles wore on we had the pleasure of more technical terrain. I take my hat off to those friends that have run the WHW race! I found it enough of a struggle maintaining a decent walking pace!

Along this stretch we met a few familiar faces from yesterday, exchanging pleasantries as we went. We also met a new face, Jen, and ended up spending most of the day with her, chatting easily as we went. It was great to hear her story having travelled from Australia to walk the Way following the footsteps of a family member.

Lunch at Inversnaid

Stopping at Inversnaid for lunch provided a welcome break.

The walkers area is fantastic, a warm invitation to come in with storage for boots and rucksacks and an area for outdoorsy folks to congregate and admire the views over the loch should they prefer not to engage with the riffraff from the coach parties, who is fairness had not yet arrived.

We enjoyed our lunchtime blether with fellow travellers from far and wide.

Inversnaid to Inverarnan: Ups and Downs

The next section is known as the toughest part of the way. There’s nothing too challenging if you’re physically fit, but there is an element of challenge in that there are bouldery steps, lots of tree roots, steps and even something resembling a loft ladder (onto a bridge with only a couple of steps down the other side). Conditions today were favourable, extremely dry underfoot, just a tad too hot overhead so we were comfortable.

After a few miles of this tougher terrain the path gets better again. This leads to some stunning views and an opportunity to really take them in as you’re not constantly having to watch your feet to avoid tripping up.

We stopped at Doune Bothy for a snack. I was disappointed to see that Doune Cottage was still in disrepair as last time we’d passed someone was starting renovations works. Maybe one day we’ll pass to find it restored to something resembling its former self.

Onwards, we parted ways with Jen who headed off to her accommodation across the loch. We slogged it out for another couple of miles on good paths, the legs feeling a little weary after the previous efforts. This lovely section heralded the end of Loch Lomond. We went through the gate at the end of the loch by a small rise to get this great view.

Beware of the Bracken

The route today was home to significant amounts of bracken, the path always visible but necessitating our walking poles being held up to try to brush it out of the way. A couple of folks said it was reminiscent of Jurassic Park. Sadly (?) I didn’t see any dinosaurs.

I was, however, horrified while in the shower to spot a wee black beastie crawling mid-way on my thigh! Thankfully this tick had not yet latched on and washed off with ease. My skin’s still crawling just thinking about it!

Evening Social

Having reached our destination, Beinglas, we were delighted to be staying here for the first time; it’s a great campsite with a range of budget options. We enjoyed a lovely evening in the bar, firstly chatting to a lady we’d met on Saturday in Drymen, then sharing a meal with Tommy, a great guy that’s walking all the way from Lands End to John O’Groats to raise money for the MND Association. Having met and chatted with him on the trail yesterday, it was so good to hear his stories and share in a little bit of his journey.

Headed off to bed dreaming of ticks!

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