We got off to a great start having slept really well followed by an amazing breakfast! I couldn’t resist getting stuck in before remembering to take a picture, such was the beauty of the food!
Another absolute bonus was that the hotel had a drying room. We were delighted to have our soaking wet boots / shoes returned bone dry!
On The Way Again
Leaving Inveroran behind we were happy to have some hint of sun through the clouds rather than the rain that had been forecast for the whole day.
The track initially followed a minor road before joining the old road that was in use until 1930s.
We pondered how this could have served as the main road, my prime concern being how on earth you passed anyone coming the opposite direction! Bruce, however, saw it more logically, pointing out that there would have been significantly less traffic!
There are some wee lochans along this stretch of moorland which make it more interesting.
We made it just beyond 5 miles before the wind picked up and the dark clouds that had been threatening to engulf us blew over, the rain starting. This led to an amusing sight as every walker on the path ahead or behind pretty much stopped in unison to don their waterproofs. Comedy value aside, it was rather frustrating as they certainly weren’t needed for additional warmth!
We trundled on, chatting to folks that we met, again surprised by the number of people going the opposite direction, in time reaching the top of the rise that would lead us down to Glencoe.
Lunch at Glencoe
Having given consideration as to where we should stop for lunch, we opted for the Glencoe Ski Centre Café. This was a good shout; we were rewarded with coffee and cake for a reasonable price. Further down the road we walked through Kinghouse; good to see that they still support walkers on a budget with public toilets and showers available for the campers, alongside space for pitching tents. Inveroran I noticed also offered wild campers the option of using the baggage carrier services for drop off. I guess it increases the trade in the bar, all good business.
The Rain Stops
While we’d been in the café the worst of the rain had passed over, so much so that when we reached Kingshouse we stopped to take our waterproofs off. This was a moment of great celebration as I felt like I was being boiled in the bag!
We headed towards ‘the Buachaille’, aka the shortbread tin mountain. We’d seen it as we left Glencoe, relatively cloud free, but as we made our way towards the Devil’s Staircase the rain came back with a vengeance and the waterproofs were back on – again!
It’s always further than I remember between Kingshouse and the Devil’s Staircase, probably nearer the 5k mark rather than the mile I’m anticipating expect.
The Devil’s Staircase
Finally we reached the path that WHW walkers dread. The real reason it’s known as the Devil’s Staircase is detailed fully here: https://discoverglencoe.scot/activities/walk-the-devils-staircase/
So in essence, stay calm unless you’re wild camping on the WHW in the throes of winter! In the summer months you’re sure to survive the experience.
For us, it wasn’t quite as pleasant an experience as it might have been. Everything around engulfed in cloud, the rain continuing to fall, there was little point in stopping and looking back as there was no view to admire. We soldiered on, I pulled my hood tight and focused only on the ground immediately in front of me. Before long we reached the top, and it was still raining.
It cleared a little briefly to allow us a view.
Down to Kinlochleven
From the cairn that marks the high point, there is very little ascent, the majority of the trail now headed downhill towards Kinlochleven, steepening as it gets closer, although this takes quite some time.
On and on we went, sadly the rain followed us. We thought we were going to dry out but no, we arrived in Kinlochleven resembling drowned rats!
Thankfully the lovely owner of the B & B has seen it all before and was well prepared. A laundry basket was provided for our wet clothes to be returned later.
Dinner at the Highland Getaway
We were advised this was the place to eat in Kinlochleven and judging by the number of friends from the Way that had descended for the evening this appears to be the word on the street. A very enjoyable evening was had; good food, good chat. Sure we’ll see some of our trail friends again tomorrow but for those we’re saying goodbye to, safe travels & enjoy the rest of the journey. It’s been a pleasure meeting you along the Way!
Clare, happiest outdoors! 