This part of the walk ended up being over two days despite originally planned for one. Our thought had been to finish the West Highland Way on Friday and start the Great Glen Way on Saturday, then spending two nights in South Laggan to allow us a day to walk the Loch Lochy munros. The weather, however, had a different plan. The forecast for Saturday was very wet, meaning we’d be very likely to get a soaking and we’d then have very boggy munros the next day as these hills do like to hold the water! Bruce therefore swung into action, considering alternatives, to come up with a plan that involved a rest day, bus out, bus back to Fort William the following day and then the planned long walk to officially start the Great Glen Way.
Resting in Fort William
After breakfast we wandered into the town centre and mooched around the shops for a bit before heading up to visit Rosalyn and Willie, a lovely couple that we’ve come to know over the years following many stays in their B & B; it was good to catch up, to see the ‘kids’ and to get my doggie fix with Rio, a new addition to the family.
Wandering back into the town centre, we debated what we would do for the afternoon. The weather wasn’t quite as bad as forecast, the rain remaining light if anything, so we decided to walk out to Neptune’s Staircase, shortening the walk for our first day and keeping the legs moving.
Great Glen Way: We’re Off!
In contrast from the monument that heralds the start of the West Highland Way, the Great Glen Way is marked by a big sign round the back of McDonalds.
This path leads along past the shinty pitch and has been improved since we were last in the area, a new cycle and walking path having been created to take the ‘traffic’ away from the homes that line sections of the route.
We passed the old shipwreck around 3 miles in and Bruce did his tourist guide bit for a couple that asked for tips on where to visit in Skye.
The rain started to get a little heavier at this point, the wind picking up too, so we picked up the pace to get onto the canal path where the trees provided some shelter.
Neptune’s Staircase
There was a wee crowd gathered at Neptune’s Staircase as we arrived, a few boats in the process of going up the locks towards Inverness. I love watching boats on the locks but didn’t wish to get soaked! Bruce kindly took some photos for me.
Buses, not Boots
We left Neptune’s Staircase on the bus and had a tour around Fort William before finally getting back to the bus station. There we picked up our next bus, the Citylink service to Inverness. I’m usually a train girl, indeed Bruce took his (free) bus to Glasgow to start our holiday while I went on the train.
If all bus drivers were like Simon, I’d be on the bus way more often! He was so welcoming! He introduced himself and gave a detailed explanation of all things safety in the unlikely event of an emergency, offered to adjust the heating and ventilation if anyone was feeling too hot / cold, explained that there would be an option to get off for a comfort break as his toilet was out of action, and he even stopped at the B & B to drop us at the door as he was able to pull off the road. On leaving the bus, he gave us direction on the best place to access the bus in the morning. I asked Bruce if that was normal service these days and it appears not, although he does usually travel on Megabus from Aberdeen. Thank you Simon, you were appreciated!
Bus to Fort William
Day 2 saw us begin our journey with the return journey to Fort William to pick up where we left off at Neptune’s Staircase. Refreshed after a relaxing evening and another hearty breakfast, we traipsed along the road to pick up the bus opposite the Youth Hostel. I was delighted when the bus pulled up and it was Simon driving again. And relax!
Once at Fort William, we got off and were kindly driven out to Neptune’s Staircase by Rosalyn. Extremely grateful of the lift, we saved ourselves a good hour or two by getting there far more quickly than on foot or waiting for another bus.
Caledonian Canal Path
Our walk started along the canal path. Flat and wide, this made for good walking. Thankfully for Bruce, there were none passing through the locks or looking about to as we made our way, otherwise we may still have been there!
Some may consider this section of canal path boring; I was happy to take in the changing landscape, the undergrowth and of course the occasional boat passing.
Gairlochy
We made our way to Gairlochy where the terrain changed. Initially on the road, it became more undulating, the path narrowing, parallel to the road for a time.
Crossing the road, we dropped down to the lochside and it was lovely to hear the calming sound of the water lapping the shore, very like a meditation.
There were places where the path climbed a little; it was undulating, but in such a way that it would barely register on a route profile. The path headed through trees, then dropped again to the lochside. Along a section of road there were various boards detailing how the Commandos had used the area for training in years gone by.
Caledonian Discovery
Those that know my fascination with boats and locks will understand my delight when we saw the Caledonian Discovery barge moored on the loch! It was like all my birthdays and Christmases had come at once! It also took the pain of having to walk on the road away for a bit as we stopped to take photos and I wittered about going on a barge holiday; if I ever do it is likely to be a solo trip!
Road to Clunes
The road continued all the way to Clunes, only for a few miles but it felt like longer. Beyond Clunes, there was a good fire road that undulated alongside the loch again. Unfortunately the rain came on at this point so we stopped to don our waterproofs and rucksack covers.
Forest Roads
Thereafter it was a bit frustrating as the rain would appear to stop and then start again. We took our waterproofs off only to have to put them back on again shortly after. Then we had a short downpour. We gave up after that deciding the easiest course of action was just to keep them on and accept being too hot.
Diversion
Aware that we’d have a diversion in the forest due to works ongoing for a new hydro scheme, we were expecting some kind of dug up, muddy track.
You can therefore imagine our surprise and delight when we discovered it was actually a really good path, thoughtfully created with a switchback to ease the ascent and seats at each bend to allow those that need it to rest weary legs and admire the views.
We quickly concluded that this diversion was in fact the best part of the day!
Rejoining the ‘Old’ Path
It was something of an anti-climax to be back on the route as it had been, the only upside being that we were getting ever closer to the Eagle Barge and a refreshing drink.
Further down, the hydro folks have improved the road so where it was once a bit bumpy, it’s now in better condition which made for easier walking.
Finally arriving at the Eagle Barge, we boarded the boat to order our drinks. I was delighted to share my sofa with the resident dog for a while. My favourite canal boat was moored opposite too!
Leaving the barges behind, we continued our walk, past the back of our B & B, to reach the Great Glen Hostel where we stopped for some food. A very impressive offering! Fed and watered once more, it’s time for a good night’s sleep! It’s been a long day!
Clare, happiest outdoors! 