Bikes, Trains and Boots: the Great Glen Way and the Glenfinnan Munros

Day 4: Biking on the Great Glen Way

Due to a less attractive forecast in addition to tired legs we decided to take a rest day. Anyone who knows Bruce well will know that rest doesn’t really figure in his day. I can easily while away a day doing little or nothing. He is happier on the go, and so we opted to get out on the bikes and ride a bit of the Great Glen Way. This also gave me the opportunity to have a wee recce of the canal section of the marathon so win-win!

Having walked the GGW last year it amused us when we reached the start again, remembering how distinctly underwhelmed we felt heading off from the back of McDonalds before passing through a housing estate. Thinking about it now, it’s a little like starting the West Highland Way, but there you’re leaving a shopping precinct in Milngavie.

Before long the shore of Loch Linhe are reached and glimpses of the loch are seen through the trees and beautiful wild flowers.

Wild flowers on the Great Glen Way, Fort William

Continuing on there’s an old boat beached on the shore. While waiting here for Bruce to take photos I met an old lady, walking her dog, who’d originated in Inverurie. We had a very enjoyable chat about life and she was delighted to be able to chat Doric ahead of her visit in August.

Old boat on the Great Glen Way, Fort William

Further along we passed Neptune’s Staircase – a series of lochs that allows boats to pass along the canal. I’m a canal geek! I love watching the boats and could happily sit there for hours. Unfortunately there were none to be seen. There was however a very tasty scone to be had at the cafe and that took away some of the pain.

Tasty treats, Great Glen Way, Neptune’s Staircase, Caledonian Canal, Fort William

We continued along the canal until the rain came ever closer and threatened to engulf us. With the forecast suggesting it would be on for the afternoon once it started we bailed and headed for home. Not a huge ride, but a wee spin of the legs and I can honestly say, paddded shorts are a Godsend!

Caledonian Canal, Great Glen Way, Fort William

Day 6:

Final day of our Fort William holiday, we headed out to Glenfinnan to walk a couple of munros: Sgurr Thuilm and Sgurr nan Coireachan. The forecast looked good and despite the low cloud in Fort William it was due to clear later in the afternoon, although the MWIS were suggesting only a 40% chance of cloud free munros. For future reference, should you wish to put a bet on in relation to hill forecasts, go with MWIS! They were right.

On arrival at Glenfinnan the car park was getting busy. That means only one thing: the steam train was due to pass! We didn’t see it as we went under the viaduct and were quickly engulfed in the cloud, but there is something exciting in seeing the Harry Potter train go past! We did hear the chugging of the engine later in the day as it passed somewhere below us, and later, on the ride back out we heard the whistle while chatting to a friendly Estate worker who’d stopped his Landrover for a blether. It appears Thomas had escaped as he was all alone!

Glenfinnan Viaduct

Back to the hills …

We headed out on our bikes on a decent tarmac road for a few kilometres before heading along a rougher track. Sadly this was the point at which we noticed the incline and the fatigue in our legs! Thereafter there was quite a bit of moaning and some pushing. A quick stop off at the Corryhully Bothy on route suggested that perhaps bothying isn’t all bad. It wasn’t quite en-suite, but this one had electricity! Not long after we dumped our bikes at the signposted path for Sgurr nan Coireachan, the plan being to return by this path, and continued on foot for Sgurr Thuilm.

The initial ascent is always the worst, and alongside the less than favourable weather I was pretty scunnered and wondering why I was doing this at all! Bruce was somewhat more upbeat and looking forward to getting another couple under his belt. We won’t dwell on this climb, suffice to say I wasn’t the best company, however on getting past the worst of it I did perk up. Just as well really as it was around this time that the misty droplets from the low hanging cloud turned to rain and the waterproofs went on. Never the best, it’s particularly unpleasant to have to use them in humid conditions … are they wetting out or are you just drowning from the inside?

Continuing on, we reached the summit of Sgurr Thuilm, pausing briefly as it was still very misty and hoping the cloud may clear. The rain did come and go, along with Bruce’s waterproofs, but ultimately he accepted defeat and just kept them on.

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The route to the second munro should have been a very fine ridge walk. Sadly the low cloud meant that we couldn’t appreciate the fine views but it was very enjoyable going up and over four minor summits on the way to the second munro. There was a clear path alll along the ridge and with the exception of a few very short rockier sections this continued up to the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan.

Heading down was more interesting, following a narrower, steeper ridge. The wet rocks meant that careful footing was required and I was glad to make the descent safely. This continued onto a stalkers path which led steeply downhill, zigzagging to ease the gradient, finally leading us back to the bikes. The views opened up and we were able to see down to Glenfinnan Viaduct and back along the ridge we’d walked.

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Finally, a fast, fun ride took us back down to the car park, making memories of mashed quads on the way up fade away as we basked in the joy of having saved so much time heading out again.

Glenfinnan Viaduct, returning from Sgurr nan Coireachan

Holidays over, time for one last walk into Fort William and a final stop at the Grog & Gruel. Cheers!

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