Borders Abbey Way: Melrose to Kelso (Day 1)

For this year’s solo (antisocial) holiday, I’m on the Borders Abbey Way. Somewhat lacking in fitness, I felt a wee bit of trepidation last night as I got my kit ready for morning. However, as soon as my feet hit a trail today I knew that I’d found my happy place and things would be okay. This feeling ebbed and flowed throughout the day, sometimes dipping into Type 2 fun instead. More on that later!

Leaving Melrose

First win of the day: I didn’t get lost! The new app through WalkHighlands is ace. It showed me the way to the Abbey (not much more than a stone’s throw from my hotel) and out of Melrose with ease.

Passing the abbey it wasn’t long at all before I left the tarmac behind, crossing through a gate and hitting some lovely single track.

Newstead: Confusion

Having found the route really well signed, I managed to get to Newstead with ease.

Here, things got a little confusing for a moment or two. I followed the sign, crossed under the old railway line and under the road, then nothing. There was a clear sign pointing back the way I’d come but no indication of which way to go. The app to the rescue, I was on the right track once again and before I knew it heading uphill. I opted to take an ultra runner’s approach and walk to conserve my energy at points like this, slowing the overall pace.

Newton St Boswells

This was the biggest village I’d pass through today. With hindsight I’d have searched out a café and stopped for a cuppa but at the time it felt too early. For additional fuel (beyond bacon, eggs & toast for breakfast) I was carrying a litre of water and some Haribo to snack on. I stopped off at the toilet because it was there; thankfully I didn’t really need as it was locked!

That aside, directions were good and I passed through with ease.

For a short time the route shared the St Cuthbert’s Way. This is another route that I considered this year, but for some reason I’m freaked out at the prospect of spending the night alone on a tidal island with a small population. Maybe one day when the times are right to get across and back in a day!

Continuing on I crossed a bridge before heading up, up, up – 3 sets of steps that led to a lovely viewpoint.

I took the opportunity to pause and admire the scenery, grateful of the opportunity to enjoy such an experience.

Shortly afterward, the St Cuthbert’s Way split and I followed the path to reach …

Dryburgh Abbey

I do love an abbey with a long standing fascination with Pluscarden Abbey and the monastic lifestyle. I’m overdue a visit there!

Dryburgh is undergoing some renovation work and a couple of areas were not accessible. Given that it’s very open due to the absence of certain walls anyway I didn’t feel that this was detrimental to the visit and enjoyed ambling around, walking down to the River Tweed without realising that I’d be running alongside it very soon, such is the attention I’d given to the route planning.

Follow the River Tweed

The path alongside the river was flat which was pleasant, running on grass slightly less so. There were a few fisherman standing in the river who waved as I passed by.

I was thrilled to come upon a single track path through the trees once again, returning to my happy place.

It was sadly short-lived but was followed by a good track alongside a corn field.

Hitting The Road

With no clear points of reference things are a bit of a blur beyond this. There were stretches of road, some of which went up, others going down or flat. In some ways I enjoyed the road running as it was easier than running across fields. I used the flowers along the verge to take my mind off any ascent, trying to enjoy the environment rather than watching the miles.

There were then many shorter sections through fields …

Along tracks and across minor roads …

Through more fields …

And along grassy tracks …

I played games to keep me going, getting to the next mile or road crossing before having a short walk break, or bribing myself with a couple of Haribo to keep going. I was happy to reach the Kelso Race Course as this gave an indication that the daily distance was likely to be accurate and I didn’t have too much further to go.

Reaching the outskirts of Kelso I was tempted just to put my hotel into the map app and take the shortest route there. However, I resisted and followed the official route which took me down to the river once again and frustratingly along yet more grass. On the upside I saw some swans and some ducklings too.

The Cream Chimneys

A bit early for check-in, I went in search of food and went into the first cafe I came upon, The Cream Chimneys. I opted to sit outside as I was feeling somewhat hot and sweaty, and enjoyed watching the world go by while refreshing myself with some elderflower lemonade (which the wasps were intent on sharing, thankfully having the good grace to wait until I’d poured the can into a glass before going inside it) and refuelling with a tasty bagel. I suspect at that point in the day anything would have tasted great in all honesty!

Cross Keys Hotel

Pleasantly surprised by my accommodation for the night, I was rewarded by the arrival of my bag just after checking in! Very happy with this as all I wanted was a shower!

Dinner this evening has been great – I know how to treat myself when I’m away and all that remains is to sort out my running park for tomorrow. Don’t think I’ll have any issues getting to sleep tonight!