We left our B & B in Culbokie sharp as we were on the clock, the locked gate to the Strathfarrar munros being limited to specific hours for access. Although walkers and bikes are welcome anytime, cars are only allowed in at 9 am and have to be out by 8 pm in August, departure times varying slightly throughout the season. Arriving at the car park by the gate, there were two cars already waiting. A few minutes later, the gate opened and we were checked in, car by car, the registration numbers and number of occupants noted to ensure everyone safely vacates later in the day.
With Bruce’s singlespeed in the back, our plan was that he’d drop me at the start of the walk, and leave the car at the ‘end’ where we’d drop down to the road, thus avoiding a long walk back along tarmac at the end of our day.
Flying Solo: Sgùrr na Ruaidhe
Throwing me out of the car, Bruce continued on. I got myself ready to walk, applying some extra suncream to my legs, getting my walking poles assembled, chatting to another walker who was getting ready to head out. I left first, heading up the hill towards the first munro of the day.
Ahead of starting we’d discussed our plan. Bruce’s suggestion was that I just keep going and he’d catch me at some point. My feeling was that I’m not that slow, and if I wanted a day in the hills by myself I’d have gone without him; we therefore agreed that I’d wait at the summit of the first munro for him to catch up.
With the fine weather forecast, I’d swithered about wearing my trail runners rather than leather boots. However, the Walkhighlands bog grading was a 3, suggesting there may be some boggy patches, so boots it was. I was very glad of this decision as the path was wet for much of the way up and my feet would undoubtedly have been soaked (and more than likely blistered as a direct result)!
The big climb of the day was to the first summit and with no Bruce to follow behind I just had to grind it out, slow and steady. I was surprised that the guy behind me didn’t pass me, but he appeared content to stay back, occasionally stopping for a break.
I reached the summit of the first munro, Sgùrr na Rhuaidhe and explored the wee windshelter cairn to see if it would provide shelter from the breeze; it appeared that the warm wind was coming from the ‘wrong’ direction so I set myself up behind the big cairn instead, settling in to await Bruce’s arrival.
Heading up, I’d seen someone else a fair bit behind the other walker and wondered if it was Bruce, thinking he was making mighty good time if it was him! As it transpired, Bruce did appear after I’d been blethering to the other walker for a while. I was quite shocked by this as I’d only been waiting for around 25 minutes!
I queried how the bike ride had been; he replied that he didn’t bike. I knew he couldn’t have walked it in that time as he’s not that quick, and guessed that he’d got a lift. It turned out that he’d timed it to perfection, one of the estate vehicles coming along just as he was about to get the bike out, and he was kindly given a hurl to the start. That saved him a fair bit of time and effort, so he was most grateful.
Bruce enjoyed a quick break and I made the most of the fine day and my extended break before continuing on. The views were stunning, the cloud high with good visibility all around. The munros that we were to do looked very appealing indeed!
The Bouldery One: Càrn nan Gobhar
Our second summit, Càrn nan Gobhar, was only a short distance away. Aside from the bouldery terrain that led up the final pull to the summit, this was an easy walk. The dry day made this easy going, I’m not sure it would have been as pleasant if the boulders were wet and potentially slippery.
The Highest One: Sgùrr a’Choire Ghlais
Leaving this summit behind, the ridge to the third munro, Sgùrr a’Choire Ghlais beckoned. The ridges in this round of munros really are beautiful. Bruce was right, these are definitely my kind of hills! Not overly challenging in terms of exposure or technicality, but a stunning landscape to be surrounded by.
The Final One: Sgùrr Fhuar-thuill
We continued on along another lovely ridge to make our way towards the fourth and final summit of the day.
This proved a little more challenging on legs that were becoming weary, not least because of the heat and humidity of the day. We stopped part way up to have a snack and admire the view back along the ridge.
Energy restored, if only a little, we tackled the final pull up to the top. What a joy it was to reach the final munro of the day, Sgùrr Fhuar-thuill. Bruce took out his hip flask and we enjoyed a wee dram on this final top. Here we also met and chatted to the guy from the start of our walk once again, the chat continued on and off all the way back to the parked car. This probably kept me going as I was tired by this point and having the two guys chatting ahead made me move a little quicker than I might have done otherwise.
The descent was on a very good stalkers path, the turning point highlighted by a small cairn. This took us down to a very scenic path alongside the Allt Toll a’ Mhuic. The beauty of the water, purple heather and trees were very much appreciated, the scenery taking my mind off my weary joints as I drank in the landscape.
Finally we got to a point where the car was in sight! This was definitely cause for celebration. The two guys reached the car ahead of me, I was trundling along at my own pace by this point. Boots off, rucksacks in the boot, we drove the few miles (4.5?) back to the starting point, very grateful that we weren’t walking this. We dropped our companion at his car for which he was supremely grateful.
Back the final miles along the road, we rang the doorbell and checked out at the gate.
Would we go back? For me, an emphatic yes! If anyone ever wants company on these beautiful hills just yell; underrated, these are stunning munros with everything you need for a great day out, lots of beauty and not too much of a challenge!
Clare, happiest outdoors! 