Day 4: Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen
As we’re on a tour of the area we opted for the point to point walk. We could have walked from Grindelwald but our route guide suggested a train to Alpiglen was the best option, cutting out a bit of ascent and picking up the route that would lead along to Kleine Scheidegg.
After a quick check of train times, we hotfooted it out of the hotel to catch the 8:45 train. Impressively, despite Bruce’s boot coming undone (small eyelets that don’t always lock in properly) and leading him to fall off the step going full length onto the street, he escaped relatively unscathed and we made the train.
Train to Alpiglen
The train to Alpiglen went steeply uphill; I was glad we’d opted for this rather than the walk as the sun was out and it was already pretty hot. We’d been advised ahead of boarding that Alpiglen is a request stop, so like a bus, we had to ping the bell to advise the driver we’d like to get off.
Alpiglen to Kleine Scheidegg
We left the station at Alpiglen and picked up a good track that would lead us all the way to Kleine Scheidegg. Initially, we were lulled into a false sense of security as it appeared quite tame.
However, just shy of 3 miles, we gained over 1400 feet of elevation.
Once again the Eiger dominated the landscape.
We came upon two couples from Texas and got chatting to them. This was lovely as we not only swapped stories of travel and adventures, it made the ascent seem so much easier as we didn’t notice the time pass by. Before we knew it we were approaching the station at Kleine Scheidegg. I joked with Bruce that had I known the train came up to this point I might have got it. It would have been seriously tempting; I need to remember that I’m on a walking holiday!
We stopped at the café for refreshment. I ordered a latte, later regretting this somewhat as I felt incredibly nauseous. This passed, thankfully, and by the time we’d descended to Wengen I felt fine.
Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg, we were leaving the Eiger. The impressive north face was visible from this angle, I think we’ve now pretty much circumvented it.
The other big mountains that I’ve come to love over the last few days, Mönch and Jungfrau were also looking splendid. It fills me with wonder seeing the snow on top despite the heat that we’re walking in.
We’ve heard the cowbells in the distance over the last few days; today was the first day that we’ve had the pleasure of getting close to the cows. I love the different tones of the bells. I’d never tire of listening to this beautiful sound. Perhaps I need to buy a collection (of bells) for my garden!
Further on, we came upon an honesty box. Different to those we’re familiar with in Scotland, instead of offering sugary snacks or ice lollies, this one sold cheese.
We were descending gradually all the way and finally we were reaching a point where we’d lose the familiar mountains. One last look back ..,
… and we continued down towards Wengen, the landscape changing as we descended.
We’d walked close to the railway along the route and occasionally we’d see the train pass by, much to my delight. (Add trains to the list of things I like alongside ferries, locks and barges).
We agreed to stop on reaching Wengen for lunch, the legs tiring a little from the constant downward motion.
Finally, Wengen was within touching distance. We came off the trail and headed onto road, continuing to go steeply down. I can very much understand why everyone here appears to have an electric bike!
We found a wee café beside the railway station and stopped there for lunch. It was great to offload the weight of the rucksack briefly.
Wengen to Lauterbrunnen
Leaving Wenger, we continued downhill steeply, meeting the American friends we’d picked up earlier. Having parted ways at Kleine Scheidegg, they’d taken a different path and where we’d finished steeply down into Wengen they’d come steeply up!
The walk down to Lauterbrunnen reminded us of heading into Kinlochleven, down, down and down some more, the village appearing tantalisingly close, never quite reaching it as there was always another switchback in the path.
Finally we made it, down to the train station, then up the slope to our hotel. This hotel appears lovely and I’m excited to have a new home for the next 2 nights.
Day 5: Round Trip from Lauterbrunnen to Mürren
Staying at Hotel Silberhorn, there’s a cable car pretty much on the doorstep. Sadly it’s out of action, restarting tomorrow! We therefore had two options: take the bus to Stechelberg or walk there. We chose to walk.
Along the Valley
Lauterbunnen lies in a deep valley, therefore it was an easy, flat walk out to Stechelberg.
There we caught the world’s steepest cableway up to the village of Mürren.
A beautiful wee place, the centre is car free which makes for a very relaxing feel.
We wandered around for a bit admiring the views – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau as we’ve become accustomed to – then got some lunch to eat outdoors in the shade of the trees.
Having explored Mürren, we then walked back along towards Lauterbrunnen. Initially this was a gentle, flat walk alongside the railway. After a time the path became steeper and we began our descent.
On the descent, we chatted to various folks on the way up, one couple taking photos, one for one.
With little respite, we descended all the way back down to Lauterbrunnen.
My quads will be glad of a break as we take the train tomorrow to our next stop, Zermatt.
Clare, happiest outdoors! 