To begin with the end, as we reached the road, Bruce resolved that he would never walk this hill again, decreeing it to be the worst hill he’s ever been up. What had led to this? Well, let’s start at the beginning …
An Easy Walk
We’d had a big day yesterday, out for 10 hours, and although we both felt in pretty good nick, we decided an easier day was probably in order. Our plan hatched over breakfast was that we’d walk Cùl Beag, a short walk with amazing views. The weather looked set to be decent at this lower level so it was perfect for our needs.
A Good Start
Just twenty minutes along the road from our accommodation in Ullapool (Riverside), we parked up in a small parking area on the roadside. Bruce moved the car up a little at my suggestion to allow plenty of room for others; spoiler alert – I don’t think there were any!
We crossed the road and followed a small tarmac road for a bit ahead of cutting off and joining a landrover track. This was a big boggy but not as bad as yesterday – we figured nothing could be!
Then came the stream crossing. It’s not even mentioned on the Walk Highlands route guide, however, possibly with the rain of a couple of days ago it was too high to wade across and the stones were also well under water. We wandered back and forth a bit, settling on a place that looked suitable for leaping – and we made it!
We followed a small rise and continued on. We climbed easily over a wee fence, then the boggy section began. We squelched across it, picking our way across the higher grassy areas where possible.
Bogfest Begins
From here until we started to ascend there was incessant bog with very little reprieve. The path came and went, at times seeming clear, then frustratingly disappearing. We wandered off course, struggling to see how the suggested route could be the preferred choice.
Some large slabs of stone made for some easier walking, boots gripping well. The bog began again, we squelched and slid, Bruce regretted his choice of (fabric) boots. Meanwhile I had my faithful leather Altbergs and was doing okay.
Meall Dearg
The bog relented slightly (but not completely) as we started to ascend up to Meall Dearg. Sadly the path didn’t improve any and we struggled to find a clear route, instead picking our way as best we could through boulders and heather.
We reached the top, navigated our way over more slabs of rock and then made our way down towards the lochan. This also proved tricky, again the lack of clear path inhibiting good progress.
Cloud Incoming
We could see some cloud coming in by the time we reached the lochan and Bruce questioned whether we should just call it a day as we headed down. Unlike me, my feeling was that we’d come this far and the top of Cùl Beag was within touching distance, half a mile or so, therefore we should continue. Aside from the distance, there also looked to be a path heading up so all would be well.
Solifluction Terraces
Caused by glacial activity, these appear like waves (or paths) on the hillside. The name I’ve learned from Walk Highlands, the appearance through being on yet another pathless hillside where there appears to be path for a few metres at a time, only for it to disappear.
We slogged our way up, at one point climbing up a very steep, grassy bank using hands to grab on for a short time. This made me wonder how on earth we’d get back down but we’d committed.
Stunning Views?
Probably. Unfortunately we weren’t privy to them. The misty clouds had moved in and shrouded the surrounding hills. A drizzle started and I wondered if we were also about to get a good soaking!
Bruce found a good spot to shelter behind the cairn. I was less keen on this as there was a bit of a drop below, so stayed a little further away, still getting some shelter.
I put on my waterproof jacket for both warmth and warding off the rain, settling in to see if the clouds would clear. From my viewpoint I could see behind me also and saw the clouds clear a little, then completely enshroud all the hills. After some time it lifted, unfortunately still blowing around the bealach and rolling past. Eventually, after about half an hour, we decided to cut our losses and head down.
A Joyful Descent
We found the way down easier than the way up, reaching the bealach pretty swiftly.
I wondered about going round rather than over Meall Dearg but we concluded there was likely a reason why the walk guide suggested this, probably bog!
We found our way off Meall Dearg without difficulty, only to realise that we’d gone way off course and had to navigate even more boggy ground to get back to our route towards the car.
Amused
The upshot of the day was that while Bruce hated this walk, vociferously stating it throughout, I found it mildly amusing. It’s normally me that complains when out (not often, but on occasion) where he’ll be living his best life as he loves a hill! Today, however, it was a different matter!
We made it back in one piece, boots soaked, gaiters soaked, mood improving when we hit the tarmac.
A Positive End
Back in Ullapool, we dropped the car and wet gear, and headed along to the Seafood Shack. A delicious haddock wrap followed by a pint in the Ceilidh Place soothed the mood and reminded us that life is good!
